Presenter: Jin Junxi Title: Charisma of Meili Snow Mountain Time: September 21, 2000 7:30 pm Venue: Multi-functional Hall on the third floor of Guizhou Mansion (Note: Due to the drafting of the audio recording, some of the contents are inaccurate, please understand)
Everyone was very happy and very happy to meet with so many people who loved mountaineering and outdoor sports today to discuss the situation in the Meili Snow Mountain. I did not expect to see many new faces. This shows that our country’s outdoor sports are gradually being promoted and developed. in. Everyone likes climbing and likes nature. Then I come to talk about a little superficial personal experience, and some personal mountaineering experience, lessons, to provide more reference information for many mountain friends, as far as possible Avoid unnecessary injuries in outdoor activities, including natural injuries and man-made injuries. The artificial injuries I have said mainly refer to issues such as misconduct and internal solidarity. In May this year, I was the Chinese liaison officer of the three mountaineering teams in Japan in Everest and I heard that it was difficult
At that time, it was not yet aware of the seriousness of the problem. After returning to Lhasa, more detailed information was obtained. In the event of such an accident, as an old climber, my mentality is also very painful. Many amateur teams lack the necessary experience and detailed organization and solid mountaineering skills. With the advantages of youth and physical strength, Deng Xueshan is quite dangerous. Nowadays, the (Chinese Mountaineering) Association has popularized climbing more than ever. There is no relevant training plan yet. At present, the development of outdoor sports is fast. This time, I mainly explained to you the details of the two reconnaissance flights between Meili Snow Mountain and China since the beginning of 1988. The 1991 mountain storm is of course natural, but the two countries Mountaineers also have some areas for future attention in mountain command and climbing. As the only witness who has participated in the four events in Meili Snow Mountain, I have some clear details about them. The association did not seriously carry out summary analysis after such a big accident. I have always been
Sorry. The summary of the accident is not to say what the responsibility of the person is to be pursued. It is a summary of the lessons that will benefit the organization of future mountaineering activities. It not only has implications for our professional team, but more importantly it is for many of our amateur teams. This kind of guidance, especially for many young mountaineers, is of great help.
There are indeed many mysterious places in the Meili Snow Mountain. His climatic conditions and topographical features make climbing difficult. He is located in the Hengduan Mountains area, which also belongs to the Nu Mountain Range. Every step he takes while climbing is pondering. The snow-capped mountains of Meili Snow Mountain are small and broken, cutting very badly. Climbers are generally very troublesome. There are two cases. One is "bean curd residue", the other is "spike tooth" topography. The so-called bean curd residue is the ice storm area, and the wolf tooth topography is the broken edge of the blade. Meili Snow Mountain is dominated by these two types of terrain. In terms of latitude, Meli and Nanjabawa are basically the same. Even climbing in snowy weather conditions is more dangerous. The climate change in each valley is different. Affected by the warm and wet air of the Bay of Bengal, the Meili Snow Mountain Glacier belongs to a maritime glacier. Unlike the Everest region, where there is a large amount of wind, there is less precipitation in the spring and autumn, and the wind is higher and the temperature is lower. There are dozens of teams every year in Everest and will be sent every year.
In the event of a major or minor accident, this year's Yan Genghua was in the Mount Everest. I met him at the base camp, and I was somewhat worried about his technology and physical condition. Later, when the accident occurred, Heilongjiang TV and the invitation to do the program, I do not want to go. According to a lot of real or imaginary data analysis, he was mainly due to improper use of oxygen and the weather was not well-controlled. At that time, foreign teams forecasted weather conditions better. The Japanese team's 63-year-old and 61-year-olds also climbed up. When a team member climbed to the top, he discovered that Yan Genghua had fallen asleep with an empty oxygen cylinder at about 8,600 meters. The Sherpa who followed Yan Genghua has said that he has reached the summit. However, the information collected from us is not enough to completely rule out our suspicions. Any small problem in climbing is very important. For example, because the gas oil stove did not bring, the entire team could not climb the example.
The snow-capped mountains of Meili Snow Mountain are broken, and the glaciers are well developed. The slope is large, and the glaciers move down quickly. The ice tongue is at least 2,000 meters above sea level. In October 1988, we went to reconnaissance and took the northeast direction of the Sienna Glacier route. I and Sun team members and other members of the shuttle in the forest, heard a strange ring, and later found that it is the sound of the ice collapse, the ice collapse and the original forest resonates with a very strange play. To tell the truth, we were a little despised in this 6,000-meter-long mountain. We did not bring enough equipment. There was only a small camera. A lot of information was not left. I remember twice snowfall that year, our tent. All were buried, which caused a lot of trouble for our far loss. Snow is loose and marching is very uncomfortable.
The meteorological problems are also unpredictable. When the accident occurred (in 1991, when the mountain was difficult), the base camp was floating at 3,600 meters. It was relatively clear on the whole, but according to the personnel of the high-altitude camp, the weather was bad and the storm was heavy. Because the mountain is small and the ice avalanches are frequent, many regular movements on this hill cannot be used, but some self-rescue measures cannot be used. In 1988, the first person investigated and planned to take the Sienna route. The reason why we climbed hard later was not related to our investigation. We did not reach into the glaciers. As a reconnaissance team, we must at least climb above the advance camp. We can clearly see that C1 and C2 are right, but we only look at the telescope and we seem to be able to pass. Because there was not enough time at the time, the Japanese team members wanted to return home. The leaders of both sides did not attach enough importance to the idea that the five glaciers could always find a route. But it is this kind of luck that directly led to the failure of the first climb.
When I first climbed, I was the captain of the climb. On this route, I saw that I hadn't walked a terrain before. I had a 30-meter-high ice wall. We walked in an ice alley and had a big basin. Ice blocks frequently fall from both sides. We have been looking for three days and we have not found a way, because the time is not enough. At that time we decided to withdraw. in
In that case, even if we have a few professional players who can think of ways to climb the ice wall, there are still eight migrant workers behind. Once they have something, they are uncomfortable. The truth is that local Tibetans oppose our mountaineering. They believe that the Meili Snow Mountain is one of the eight sacred mountains in Tibetan areas. The main peak, Kagbo, is the Prince of Snow Mountain and is not available for boarding. When we got into the mountains, we didn't go smoothly. The ascenders went out and the food was gone. Later, when searching, the Japanese detectors were also stolen. It can be seen that the people we climbed in were bad. At that time, it was so difficult to see the terrain. I decided to stop taking risks. I reported to the base camp. The Japanese did not, and Yokoyama came up and said how they could not be found. Later, Yokoyama took several Japanese players for another three days. There was no way to decide. When we talked, we reported to the battalion that we wanted to terminate the climb. The Chinese commander Wang Zhenhua of the battalion said: "Jin Jin, a few glaciers are like five fingers and I can't find a route?" I said : "You don't believe me, you've come up to look for it." The next day, the king and the Japanese commanded him and still couldn't find the route. He decided he had to kneel. Although this activity failed, there were no casualties. Climbing is an adventure. It is not a blind adventure. Knowing that it cannot be done, the danger is too great. Stick to it.
It is not enough. At the time of the second investigation, I heard that there were disagreements among the Japanese on their first ascent and descent. The dispute after returning home was very large. I feel that the most difficult part of climbing is when the old players and others follow you. Once you make a mistake, the whole team will be finished. Now it is popular to talk about teamwork and what is team spirit. My understanding is the spirit of collectivism I used to say. In the so-called collectivist spirit, when climbing a mountain, you are thinking about taking care of your teammates and doing more. Do not be too concerned about doing less. When a person is exhausted, he desperately descends from the mountains. What is more, he experiences storms or other dangers. When he returns to the camp, if someone brings water and eats food, he will come to the remote place to pick it up. Hou tears are coming out, but you think, went through the life and death line back to the camp to see his teammates withdrew their tents, nothing left, what is the mood. Our teammates have not come down. How can we remove the camp? This is absolutely prohibited in mountain climbing.
After the first defeat to Dengmei, the staff made adjustments. I am a mobile worker and where I need to go. In the second investigation, Sunweiqi was the person in charge, because the relationship with the local community was not harmonious. The captain was the director of the office of the association, mainly coordinating with the local community. Based on my career experience in mountaineering, the first feeling is not very good. This time it was not good enough, and I couldn't tell where it was bad. It was just a little boring emotion. When the high-powered telescope was erected, I looked at it for the first time. I didn't want to talk for a long time. I smoked on the side. We chose a second ridge. The naked eye can also see obvious faults with a transversal ice wall that glows blue. Intuition feels too high. About forty meters. Later, it was proved that there is not only a fault here. Japanese Captain Ino, who is a meteorologist, said that he could not define. When climbing, look again. During the climb, we went to the camp and chose a site that was a bit cumbersome. There was no place suitable for the camp. In a bowl-like terrain, local herdsmen say that there is flooding every summer in this summer, there are signs of avalanches around, and a pristine forest was pushed down by an ice avalanche. This was discovered after the withdrawal of the camp
of. He experienced an avalanche before he discovered his terror. However, there was no big mistake in the selection of this route, because Japan's Shangyue Association had passed this route and reached a distance of 5,400 meters. Before and after entering the mountains, the weather was good, but the weather during the climbing was really bad. We basically do not have any way to march. When we dismantled the camp, there were no clouds and the weather was particularly clear. At the time, we entered the mountains and met with the Bureau of Meteorology. We obtained information from them and paid the price. Later, due to economic problems, both parties also disputed the court. Later, the provincial government came forward to coordinate it. In fact, these data are useful for the entire mountainous area, but they have no guiding significance for the climate on the climbing route. The climate in Mery is hard to predict. The second investigation encountered many dangers. There are ice collapses on the left and right sides of the C1 to C2 route. The slope is steep. We have no other route to choose from. Once I went up first and watched the players below walk through the ice-collapse area and walk away with life. If there is slight negligence, there may be a danger to life.
The investigation was basically smooth. The Japanese investigation was thorough. There were initial estimates of the time from C2 to C3, the distance between the cracks, and the quality of the snow. We discussed several times about the selection of the camp. In the mountains, the camp must first be safe, avoiding ice avalanche areas, ice troughs, cracks, cracks in two kinds, cracks to deal with, cracks need to have some experience, when the investigation, not too many cracks, in December 1990 When climbing, the cracks become numerous, especially the cracks in C1. With respect to equipment, experience tells us that we must be prepared for maximization. We must not be conscious of luck. The necessary equipment must be at the mercy of one's strength and the back must be back. At the time of the investigation, there was an ice crash in the topography area of ​​the Baobakou above the base camp. On the top of the mouth is hanging glaciers. No.1 and
An avalanche occurred between Camp 2 and the route we had taken was taken away. The tents and equipment on the transition camp were all washed away by an avalanche. This terrain is very dangerous. When Dengtuoer was in 1977, four of us were taken away by an avalanche. In fact, it was a heavy snowfall. I felt that the pressure from the snow and ice could not be exhausted. This was my first time. At the top of the summit, when it was snowed away, I felt that it was the first summit and the last summit. I thought about it. The snow stopped and my head was exposed and saved. Avalanches are dangerous and cracks are dangerous. The results of the second investigation suggest that there are dangers on the route but it is feasible. The proposal should be a lean team and have the ability to continue operations. During the official second ascent, the Chinese and Japanese personnel made adjustments and the Chinese side changed a captain. However, the Japanese side did not know that we had adjusted the team. Japan strengthened its strength and recruited a master from Kobe University. It was he who finally repaired the line on the straight ridge. The 1200-meter course rope was used. In 1991
In the second climb, Japan made great efforts in equipment and made the best equipment preparations. Even the local migrant workers are also staffed with a Swiss army knife, and the local provincial cadres feel bad. It was the second time that the mountain was teamed up with the Kyoto University team in Japan. The first mountain that the two sides shared was Namunani. Meri was the second mountain. After that, they planned to join Nanjabawa. But I didn't expect that Meryl failed several times in failure. There are three elements of mountaineering. The weather is the most important. The mountains feel very small. I may have the possibility to look back at any time. The sound of the wind, the sound of snow, the sound of falling rocks and the collapse of ice and snow can truly feel the helplessness and fragility of one person. The most intuitive thing to say about teamwork is courage. When entering the mountains, the migrant workers said that the weather was very good the previous week and there were no clouds. I personally think that the climbing plan started to be established is correct. With the exception of C4, there are two stays at each camp, and each Chinese side is Japanese. C2 is safer and the remaining camps are at risk. During the climb, the C3 camp was built
Afterwards, there was a disagreement about keeping people in the camp and the Japanese commander Inoue was a little shaken. He believed that it was not easy for the Japanese students to climb the Snow Mountain and they should be given an opportunity. In fact, during the formal climbing process, both players also proceeded according to plan. However, the selection of the C3 site was smashed by the two sides. Later, through the collection of information, I believe that the views of both parties are not correct and neither have left the avalanche area. The glacier next to C2 is 1000 meters long and 500 meters wide, so it is of little significance for the camp to move forward or backward 100 meters. I still insist that my opinion is that the site cannot be used as a formal camp. I still do not understand why it is used as an important C3 camp. The location of C3 can be used as a transitional camp for a maximum of operational supplies. This has certain knowledge at the time of investigation. However, the location is relatively flat, with a maximum of 150. It is reasonable to say that there should be no cracks to camp. The key to the problem is that the glaciers above this camp are semi-arcuate. In addition, a large avalanche occurred before the accident. Through intercom links, the above players said that the C3 tent had accumulated a thick layer of ice. In C2
The members of the camp said that the fog covered C3 completely. Through understanding, the camp was only more than 100 meters away from the ice-collapse deposits. I suggested that Song Zhiyi relocate the camp, but later discussed the results with Mr. Inoue. He said that he had no energy and the Japanese quarreled. They are experts and are not afraid. We are not afraid either. "The Japanese are human, we are human too!" On December 28, 1990, the captains of the two sides decided to test suddenly. C1 and C2 did not keep anybody. They all went up to C3 and were ready to top. Although I'm not superstitious, sometimes it seems a bit of a coincidence that some things are recalled. One day, Sudaka suddenly said, "Left and left wood, (Secretary-General of Japan), you also come up, no more, we'll ascend to the top No chance, the above is so beautiful.One of the characteristics of the Meili Snow Mountain is that the scenery is quite beautiful, the mountains are very delicate, the snow-capped mountains above, the dense forests below, and the Lijiang River, it is indeed "Meri (beautiful)". The first time I finished the road, my right hand was numb and couldn't hold the hail. The doctor said it might be a thrombus.
I don't go on. I stayed. In fact, my fighting spirit was not very high that time. My relationship with Lao Song (Song Zhiyi) was difficult to say. I was too familiar with it. Both sides were embarrassed to oppose each other and they didn't agree with each other. When a local Tibetan migrant worker was transported to C2, he opened the intercom and said, "I grew up here and I have never seen such a beautiful mountain. It was so beautiful. I didn't want to go down." At that time, everyone did not realize that afterwards, thinking that it was not very auspicious, on the 28th, when the commando raided at 6,400 meters, the weather from the walkie-talkie was not very good. There was a cloud cover on the hill. The battalion decided that five commandos were on standby. The Japanese are very careful and each person is provided with a plastic bag and special equipment for emergency use, including poleless tents, wind-proof matches, pieces of chocolate, and gas cans. Our team members did not bring them. Japanese team members brought them together. It can be seen from these small things that the two sides can see how important safety awareness is. In the mountains, any negligence can be fatal. The five commandos waited for a long time and the weather did not improve. Sun Weiqi and Song Zhiyi did not discuss with the Japanese team.
He squatted, lost his walkie-talkie and lost contact. After the Japanese contacted, they also withdrew. However, it was impossible to clarify the direction on the route of Xia Jun. The Chinese and Japanese players had to come back with their extraordinary supplies. In this process, Sun Weiqi and Song Zhiyi went out again and found the course unsuccessfully. At this time, Captain Inoue was very angry and asked the team members to work closely together. "When the weather suddenly changes, no one can do without." At around 11:30 in the evening, the weather turned fine and the moonlight was like water. They returned to Camp 4. This shows that everything in climbing is very important. If you do not pay attention, you may cause irreparable damage. When you get lost in the mountains, the best way is to stand by and do not act without permission. Man-made accidents must be avoided. In the case of steep slopes, be sure to be clear-headed. When they returned to Camp 4, the weather deteriorated. According to local customs, after the Tibetan calendar in December, it is no longer up the mountain. The local Tibetans said that it must snow on this day, and it will snow on December 30, just as it was
As expected, it snowed on January 1 and January 2, 1999. The night before the accident, I contacted Lao Song and advised them to pick up C2. C2 was in a saddle and it was safe. However, Lao Song said that the Japanese did not agree, and they did not withdraw. To climb a mountain with foreigners is just like this. Due to differences in climbing habits and ways of climbing, differences can easily arise. Many small things in mountain climbing are difficult to avoid. Small friction can easily affect the cooperation of both parties and even their feelings. When the two parties apologize for each other during mountaineering, mutual tolerance is important. Avoiding friction is good for the entire event. On the night of the mountain disaster, the camp contacted C3 and said that the snow on the area had reached 1.2-1.3 meters deep. At that time, the connection between the camp and the alpine camp had been blocked due to snow and the sound was boring. After making a few jokes, both the battalion and the C3 were asleep. Unfortunately, we all turned off the intercom, which is also a taboo in mountain climbing. As long as there is someone in the alpine camp, the base camp cannot be shut down. When I got up the next morning, I opened the telephone, but there was no call. At 8:30, there was still no message. We were a little overhanging, and they called in a row without answering. C3 17
Personally, there are 16 walkie-talkies, and it is impossible to open a walkie-talkie at the same time. From this we can also see that the preparation of this event is very full. We suspect that C3 has no cracks. In the snow days of consecutive days, the only possibility is ice and avalanches. In previous years, the remains of Meilishan was discovered and they were found in sleeping bags. According to the local villagers, there was a rumbling noise that night and we thought that we were firing guns, but the accuracy was not very clear. According to my personal feeling, it should be shortly after we had finished talking the night before. After the accident, when we wanted to go to the rescue, the weather had deteriorated and the avalanche in the bell-mouth area continued. After reporting the rescue, the first group of them was Li Zhixin and Wang Yongfeng from Beijing. It was a week or so after the Tibetan team Ren Qing Ping Chong came to the rescue. When they took snow to Camp 2, they did not bring tents and planned to use them directly. C2's old tent, but they dug so big a place in the basketball court, still did not find the tent, it was dark and had to be withdrawn. The next day, they took advantage of the gap between the two snow blows and drew back quickly. After the accident, high-altitude camera
After shooting, we found traces of landslides in the southeast (that is, on our climbing route). In that position, the snow and ice landslides only have the possibility of avalanche, so basically it is believed that the avalanche has caused mountain difficulties. After the unsuccessful rescue of the accident, I returned to Beijing and I did not carry out systematic summarization and analysis. I am sorry. Mountains and nature have a wonderful side. As lovers of nature, we should fully experience its beautiful things and experience them with heart, but there are also cruel aspects. We should: respect the snow-capped mountains, must master the weather, terrain information, The strength of the players, the experience of the team leader, and the cooperation between team members are also very important. In the high mountains, the sacrifice is normal and easy. It requires teamwork and adversity and mutual respect, and cherish each other.
When teaming, we must consider the team's strength, experience and technical support, and the relevant forces must be trained. Technology should be taught by an experienced climber. Yuzhu Feng and Bogda are all very good training bases, but they cannot be blindly taken risks. In addition, the preparation of equipment must be adequate, and some equipment can be replaced, such as living equipment, but the general technical equipment can not be replaced, spare gloves, socks, hats, glasses, etc. must be
Have. A principle is the best equipment possible conditions. The other is team spirit. Foreign teams do a good job in this area. They love and cooperate well. For example, when another team crashes, the rest of the team will stop climbing and make every effort to rescue them. Each team should collaborate with each other and not just pursue the summit.
Tao’s sentimentalism and the enjoyment of mountaineering are the common feelings of climbers...
In the end, I wish all the mountaineering fans a safe and happy climb to the snow mountains!
Question on the spot:
Q: What are the three elements of mountaineering preparation? :
A: The weather, the terrain, and the status of the team are, as the saying goes, "the weather, the geographical location, the people, and the"
The weather forecast in the mountainous area is very important, pay attention to the life experience of the local residents, and sometimes be accurate than the forecast.
Q: What are the things that are included?
A: Generally there are windproof tents, chocolate, gas cans, stoves, wind-proof matches, etc., in case of emergency.
Q: Can the Meili Snow Mountain climb from the other side? A: Some people are trying to climb in the direction of the check, but they are also quite fragmentary.
Q: The journey from Kunming to Meili A: Xidang is a big village. There are about 20 kilometers from Deqing to Xidang. As long as it does not collapse, trucks can also be used. Local residents helped the people passing through to build roads, but they were troubled by the influence of commodity awareness.
Q: Why in the case of steep slopes, the best way for a mountaineer to meet the weather changes is to stay alive: under heavy snowfall, with poor visibility and steep slopes, the following people will go upwards and step on the flow. snow. Walking up and down, it's easy to slip, and it is difficult to climb in Meri due to the influence of the cross-mounting mountains and the warm, moist air. No one has reached the summit.
Q: How safe is it to go to camp relative to the glaciers?
A: Generally, it is not under the glaciers. This is a taboo for mountaineering. It is difficult to say how far it is safe. There are many different situations depending on the terrain.
Question: The situation of the north and south of Mount Qomolangma A: The difficulty on the northern slope of the Mount Qomolangma is more than 8,500 meters, and the difficulty on the south slope is about 6,500 meters. There is a horrible glacier that changes every day.
Q: The case of climbing Meili last year was answered by the Tibetan team's invitation to participate in the Japanese side. However, the Japanese side said that the strength is not enough and temporarily pushes it. Mei Lie Xueshan now feels emotionally that it is better to combine China and Japan. After all, Japan is Meili. Snow Mountain paid a great price.
Q: What is the problem with the phone being bored?
A: The explanation is not clear. It is just a phenomenon. The feeling may be related to the avalanche.
Q: The association has such a base for opening up and training mountaineering technology.
A: No, Huairou Base is a place for self-training of the national mountaineering team. Jointly building a rock wall with the Japanese is mainly a professional team training and competition.
Q: Feelings in avalanches.
A: I naturally breathe, and snow blocks in my mouth. When I start rolling, the snow is soft, but the more distant I am, the more uncomfortable I am. There is oppressive feeling of suffocation.
Q: The difference between the crampons A: The fast-carrying crampons are suitable for ice and snow walking below 50 degrees, but not suitable for ice climbing. Bundle type is more suitable for ice climbing.
Question: The role of the avalanche streamline. Answer: As the air wave flutters, the rescuer will be given a possible signal.
Q: The season of Pan-Mali: A relatively good period in November and December, and roads collapsed during the rainy season.
Q: The situation of Yan Genghua.
A: If the Sherpa pulls hard and pulls Yan, it is very likely that both people will not be able to come back because of improper use of oxygen. Experienced mountaineers generally leave half a bottle of oxygen after the summit and have the ability to move with oxygen. Mountains over 8,000 meters are difficult to reach after a single person has reached the summit. Even the Sherpas have difficulties.
Everyone was very happy and very happy to meet with so many people who loved mountaineering and outdoor sports today to discuss the situation in the Meili Snow Mountain. I did not expect to see many new faces. This shows that our country’s outdoor sports are gradually being promoted and developed. in. Everyone likes climbing and likes nature. Then I come to talk about a little superficial personal experience, and some personal mountaineering experience, lessons, to provide more reference information for many mountain friends, as far as possible Avoid unnecessary injuries in outdoor activities, including natural injuries and man-made injuries. The artificial injuries I have said mainly refer to issues such as misconduct and internal solidarity. In May this year, I was the Chinese liaison officer of the three mountaineering teams in Japan in Everest and I heard that it was difficult
At that time, it was not yet aware of the seriousness of the problem. After returning to Lhasa, more detailed information was obtained. In the event of such an accident, as an old climber, my mentality is also very painful. Many amateur teams lack the necessary experience and detailed organization and solid mountaineering skills. With the advantages of youth and physical strength, Deng Xueshan is quite dangerous. Nowadays, the (Chinese Mountaineering) Association has popularized climbing more than ever. There is no relevant training plan yet. At present, the development of outdoor sports is fast. This time, I mainly explained to you the details of the two reconnaissance flights between Meili Snow Mountain and China since the beginning of 1988. The 1991 mountain storm is of course natural, but the two countries Mountaineers also have some areas for future attention in mountain command and climbing. As the only witness who has participated in the four events in Meili Snow Mountain, I have some clear details about them. The association did not seriously carry out summary analysis after such a big accident. I have always been
Sorry. The summary of the accident is not to say what the responsibility of the person is to be pursued. It is a summary of the lessons that will benefit the organization of future mountaineering activities. It not only has implications for our professional team, but more importantly it is for many of our amateur teams. This kind of guidance, especially for many young mountaineers, is of great help.
There are indeed many mysterious places in the Meili Snow Mountain. His climatic conditions and topographical features make climbing difficult. He is located in the Hengduan Mountains area, which also belongs to the Nu Mountain Range. Every step he takes while climbing is pondering. The snow-capped mountains of Meili Snow Mountain are small and broken, cutting very badly. Climbers are generally very troublesome. There are two cases. One is "bean curd residue", the other is "spike tooth" topography. The so-called bean curd residue is the ice storm area, and the wolf tooth topography is the broken edge of the blade. Meili Snow Mountain is dominated by these two types of terrain. In terms of latitude, Meli and Nanjabawa are basically the same. Even climbing in snowy weather conditions is more dangerous. The climate change in each valley is different. Affected by the warm and wet air of the Bay of Bengal, the Meili Snow Mountain Glacier belongs to a maritime glacier. Unlike the Everest region, where there is a large amount of wind, there is less precipitation in the spring and autumn, and the wind is higher and the temperature is lower. There are dozens of teams every year in Everest and will be sent every year.
In the event of a major or minor accident, this year's Yan Genghua was in the Mount Everest. I met him at the base camp, and I was somewhat worried about his technology and physical condition. Later, when the accident occurred, Heilongjiang TV and the invitation to do the program, I do not want to go. According to a lot of real or imaginary data analysis, he was mainly due to improper use of oxygen and the weather was not well-controlled. At that time, foreign teams forecasted weather conditions better. The Japanese team's 63-year-old and 61-year-olds also climbed up. When a team member climbed to the top, he discovered that Yan Genghua had fallen asleep with an empty oxygen cylinder at about 8,600 meters. The Sherpa who followed Yan Genghua has said that he has reached the summit. However, the information collected from us is not enough to completely rule out our suspicions. Any small problem in climbing is very important. For example, because the gas oil stove did not bring, the entire team could not climb the example.
The snow-capped mountains of Meili Snow Mountain are broken, and the glaciers are well developed. The slope is large, and the glaciers move down quickly. The ice tongue is at least 2,000 meters above sea level. In October 1988, we went to reconnaissance and took the northeast direction of the Sienna Glacier route. I and Sun team members and other members of the shuttle in the forest, heard a strange ring, and later found that it is the sound of the ice collapse, the ice collapse and the original forest resonates with a very strange play. To tell the truth, we were a little despised in this 6,000-meter-long mountain. We did not bring enough equipment. There was only a small camera. A lot of information was not left. I remember twice snowfall that year, our tent. All were buried, which caused a lot of trouble for our far loss. Snow is loose and marching is very uncomfortable.
The meteorological problems are also unpredictable. When the accident occurred (in 1991, when the mountain was difficult), the base camp was floating at 3,600 meters. It was relatively clear on the whole, but according to the personnel of the high-altitude camp, the weather was bad and the storm was heavy. Because the mountain is small and the ice avalanches are frequent, many regular movements on this hill cannot be used, but some self-rescue measures cannot be used. In 1988, the first person investigated and planned to take the Sienna route. The reason why we climbed hard later was not related to our investigation. We did not reach into the glaciers. As a reconnaissance team, we must at least climb above the advance camp. We can clearly see that C1 and C2 are right, but we only look at the telescope and we seem to be able to pass. Because there was not enough time at the time, the Japanese team members wanted to return home. The leaders of both sides did not attach enough importance to the idea that the five glaciers could always find a route. But it is this kind of luck that directly led to the failure of the first climb.
When I first climbed, I was the captain of the climb. On this route, I saw that I hadn't walked a terrain before. I had a 30-meter-high ice wall. We walked in an ice alley and had a big basin. Ice blocks frequently fall from both sides. We have been looking for three days and we have not found a way, because the time is not enough. At that time we decided to withdraw. in
In that case, even if we have a few professional players who can think of ways to climb the ice wall, there are still eight migrant workers behind. Once they have something, they are uncomfortable. The truth is that local Tibetans oppose our mountaineering. They believe that the Meili Snow Mountain is one of the eight sacred mountains in Tibetan areas. The main peak, Kagbo, is the Prince of Snow Mountain and is not available for boarding. When we got into the mountains, we didn't go smoothly. The ascenders went out and the food was gone. Later, when searching, the Japanese detectors were also stolen. It can be seen that the people we climbed in were bad. At that time, it was so difficult to see the terrain. I decided to stop taking risks. I reported to the base camp. The Japanese did not, and Yokoyama came up and said how they could not be found. Later, Yokoyama took several Japanese players for another three days. There was no way to decide. When we talked, we reported to the battalion that we wanted to terminate the climb. The Chinese commander Wang Zhenhua of the battalion said: "Jin Jin, a few glaciers are like five fingers and I can't find a route?" I said : "You don't believe me, you've come up to look for it." The next day, the king and the Japanese commanded him and still couldn't find the route. He decided he had to kneel. Although this activity failed, there were no casualties. Climbing is an adventure. It is not a blind adventure. Knowing that it cannot be done, the danger is too great. Stick to it.
It is not enough. At the time of the second investigation, I heard that there were disagreements among the Japanese on their first ascent and descent. The dispute after returning home was very large. I feel that the most difficult part of climbing is when the old players and others follow you. Once you make a mistake, the whole team will be finished. Now it is popular to talk about teamwork and what is team spirit. My understanding is the spirit of collectivism I used to say. In the so-called collectivist spirit, when climbing a mountain, you are thinking about taking care of your teammates and doing more. Do not be too concerned about doing less. When a person is exhausted, he desperately descends from the mountains. What is more, he experiences storms or other dangers. When he returns to the camp, if someone brings water and eats food, he will come to the remote place to pick it up. Hou tears are coming out, but you think, went through the life and death line back to the camp to see his teammates withdrew their tents, nothing left, what is the mood. Our teammates have not come down. How can we remove the camp? This is absolutely prohibited in mountain climbing.
After the first defeat to Dengmei, the staff made adjustments. I am a mobile worker and where I need to go. In the second investigation, Sunweiqi was the person in charge, because the relationship with the local community was not harmonious. The captain was the director of the office of the association, mainly coordinating with the local community. Based on my career experience in mountaineering, the first feeling is not very good. This time it was not good enough, and I couldn't tell where it was bad. It was just a little boring emotion. When the high-powered telescope was erected, I looked at it for the first time. I didn't want to talk for a long time. I smoked on the side. We chose a second ridge. The naked eye can also see obvious faults with a transversal ice wall that glows blue. Intuition feels too high. About forty meters. Later, it was proved that there is not only a fault here. Japanese Captain Ino, who is a meteorologist, said that he could not define. When climbing, look again. During the climb, we went to the camp and chose a site that was a bit cumbersome. There was no place suitable for the camp. In a bowl-like terrain, local herdsmen say that there is flooding every summer in this summer, there are signs of avalanches around, and a pristine forest was pushed down by an ice avalanche. This was discovered after the withdrawal of the camp
of. He experienced an avalanche before he discovered his terror. However, there was no big mistake in the selection of this route, because Japan's Shangyue Association had passed this route and reached a distance of 5,400 meters. Before and after entering the mountains, the weather was good, but the weather during the climbing was really bad. We basically do not have any way to march. When we dismantled the camp, there were no clouds and the weather was particularly clear. At the time, we entered the mountains and met with the Bureau of Meteorology. We obtained information from them and paid the price. Later, due to economic problems, both parties also disputed the court. Later, the provincial government came forward to coordinate it. In fact, these data are useful for the entire mountainous area, but they have no guiding significance for the climate on the climbing route. The climate in Mery is hard to predict. The second investigation encountered many dangers. There are ice collapses on the left and right sides of the C1 to C2 route. The slope is steep. We have no other route to choose from. Once I went up first and watched the players below walk through the ice-collapse area and walk away with life. If there is slight negligence, there may be a danger to life.
The investigation was basically smooth. The Japanese investigation was thorough. There were initial estimates of the time from C2 to C3, the distance between the cracks, and the quality of the snow. We discussed several times about the selection of the camp. In the mountains, the camp must first be safe, avoiding ice avalanche areas, ice troughs, cracks, cracks in two kinds, cracks to deal with, cracks need to have some experience, when the investigation, not too many cracks, in December 1990 When climbing, the cracks become numerous, especially the cracks in C1. With respect to equipment, experience tells us that we must be prepared for maximization. We must not be conscious of luck. The necessary equipment must be at the mercy of one's strength and the back must be back. At the time of the investigation, there was an ice crash in the topography area of ​​the Baobakou above the base camp. On the top of the mouth is hanging glaciers. No.1 and
An avalanche occurred between Camp 2 and the route we had taken was taken away. The tents and equipment on the transition camp were all washed away by an avalanche. This terrain is very dangerous. When Dengtuoer was in 1977, four of us were taken away by an avalanche. In fact, it was a heavy snowfall. I felt that the pressure from the snow and ice could not be exhausted. This was my first time. At the top of the summit, when it was snowed away, I felt that it was the first summit and the last summit. I thought about it. The snow stopped and my head was exposed and saved. Avalanches are dangerous and cracks are dangerous. The results of the second investigation suggest that there are dangers on the route but it is feasible. The proposal should be a lean team and have the ability to continue operations. During the official second ascent, the Chinese and Japanese personnel made adjustments and the Chinese side changed a captain. However, the Japanese side did not know that we had adjusted the team. Japan strengthened its strength and recruited a master from Kobe University. It was he who finally repaired the line on the straight ridge. The 1200-meter course rope was used. In 1991
In the second climb, Japan made great efforts in equipment and made the best equipment preparations. Even the local migrant workers are also staffed with a Swiss army knife, and the local provincial cadres feel bad. It was the second time that the mountain was teamed up with the Kyoto University team in Japan. The first mountain that the two sides shared was Namunani. Meri was the second mountain. After that, they planned to join Nanjabawa. But I didn't expect that Meryl failed several times in failure. There are three elements of mountaineering. The weather is the most important. The mountains feel very small. I may have the possibility to look back at any time. The sound of the wind, the sound of snow, the sound of falling rocks and the collapse of ice and snow can truly feel the helplessness and fragility of one person. The most intuitive thing to say about teamwork is courage. When entering the mountains, the migrant workers said that the weather was very good the previous week and there were no clouds. I personally think that the climbing plan started to be established is correct. With the exception of C4, there are two stays at each camp, and each Chinese side is Japanese. C2 is safer and the remaining camps are at risk. During the climb, the C3 camp was built
Afterwards, there was a disagreement about keeping people in the camp and the Japanese commander Inoue was a little shaken. He believed that it was not easy for the Japanese students to climb the Snow Mountain and they should be given an opportunity. In fact, during the formal climbing process, both players also proceeded according to plan. However, the selection of the C3 site was smashed by the two sides. Later, through the collection of information, I believe that the views of both parties are not correct and neither have left the avalanche area. The glacier next to C2 is 1000 meters long and 500 meters wide, so it is of little significance for the camp to move forward or backward 100 meters. I still insist that my opinion is that the site cannot be used as a formal camp. I still do not understand why it is used as an important C3 camp. The location of C3 can be used as a transitional camp for a maximum of operational supplies. This has certain knowledge at the time of investigation. However, the location is relatively flat, with a maximum of 150. It is reasonable to say that there should be no cracks to camp. The key to the problem is that the glaciers above this camp are semi-arcuate. In addition, a large avalanche occurred before the accident. Through intercom links, the above players said that the C3 tent had accumulated a thick layer of ice. In C2
The members of the camp said that the fog covered C3 completely. Through understanding, the camp was only more than 100 meters away from the ice-collapse deposits. I suggested that Song Zhiyi relocate the camp, but later discussed the results with Mr. Inoue. He said that he had no energy and the Japanese quarreled. They are experts and are not afraid. We are not afraid either. "The Japanese are human, we are human too!" On December 28, 1990, the captains of the two sides decided to test suddenly. C1 and C2 did not keep anybody. They all went up to C3 and were ready to top. Although I'm not superstitious, sometimes it seems a bit of a coincidence that some things are recalled. One day, Sudaka suddenly said, "Left and left wood, (Secretary-General of Japan), you also come up, no more, we'll ascend to the top No chance, the above is so beautiful.One of the characteristics of the Meili Snow Mountain is that the scenery is quite beautiful, the mountains are very delicate, the snow-capped mountains above, the dense forests below, and the Lijiang River, it is indeed "Meri (beautiful)". The first time I finished the road, my right hand was numb and couldn't hold the hail. The doctor said it might be a thrombus.
I don't go on. I stayed. In fact, my fighting spirit was not very high that time. My relationship with Lao Song (Song Zhiyi) was difficult to say. I was too familiar with it. Both sides were embarrassed to oppose each other and they didn't agree with each other. When a local Tibetan migrant worker was transported to C2, he opened the intercom and said, "I grew up here and I have never seen such a beautiful mountain. It was so beautiful. I didn't want to go down." At that time, everyone did not realize that afterwards, thinking that it was not very auspicious, on the 28th, when the commando raided at 6,400 meters, the weather from the walkie-talkie was not very good. There was a cloud cover on the hill. The battalion decided that five commandos were on standby. The Japanese are very careful and each person is provided with a plastic bag and special equipment for emergency use, including poleless tents, wind-proof matches, pieces of chocolate, and gas cans. Our team members did not bring them. Japanese team members brought them together. It can be seen from these small things that the two sides can see how important safety awareness is. In the mountains, any negligence can be fatal. The five commandos waited for a long time and the weather did not improve. Sun Weiqi and Song Zhiyi did not discuss with the Japanese team.
He squatted, lost his walkie-talkie and lost contact. After the Japanese contacted, they also withdrew. However, it was impossible to clarify the direction on the route of Xia Jun. The Chinese and Japanese players had to come back with their extraordinary supplies. In this process, Sun Weiqi and Song Zhiyi went out again and found the course unsuccessfully. At this time, Captain Inoue was very angry and asked the team members to work closely together. "When the weather suddenly changes, no one can do without." At around 11:30 in the evening, the weather turned fine and the moonlight was like water. They returned to Camp 4. This shows that everything in climbing is very important. If you do not pay attention, you may cause irreparable damage. When you get lost in the mountains, the best way is to stand by and do not act without permission. Man-made accidents must be avoided. In the case of steep slopes, be sure to be clear-headed. When they returned to Camp 4, the weather deteriorated. According to local customs, after the Tibetan calendar in December, it is no longer up the mountain. The local Tibetans said that it must snow on this day, and it will snow on December 30, just as it was
As expected, it snowed on January 1 and January 2, 1999. The night before the accident, I contacted Lao Song and advised them to pick up C2. C2 was in a saddle and it was safe. However, Lao Song said that the Japanese did not agree, and they did not withdraw. To climb a mountain with foreigners is just like this. Due to differences in climbing habits and ways of climbing, differences can easily arise. Many small things in mountain climbing are difficult to avoid. Small friction can easily affect the cooperation of both parties and even their feelings. When the two parties apologize for each other during mountaineering, mutual tolerance is important. Avoiding friction is good for the entire event. On the night of the mountain disaster, the camp contacted C3 and said that the snow on the area had reached 1.2-1.3 meters deep. At that time, the connection between the camp and the alpine camp had been blocked due to snow and the sound was boring. After making a few jokes, both the battalion and the C3 were asleep. Unfortunately, we all turned off the intercom, which is also a taboo in mountain climbing. As long as there is someone in the alpine camp, the base camp cannot be shut down. When I got up the next morning, I opened the telephone, but there was no call. At 8:30, there was still no message. We were a little overhanging, and they called in a row without answering. C3 17
Personally, there are 16 walkie-talkies, and it is impossible to open a walkie-talkie at the same time. From this we can also see that the preparation of this event is very full. We suspect that C3 has no cracks. In the snow days of consecutive days, the only possibility is ice and avalanches. In previous years, the remains of Meilishan was discovered and they were found in sleeping bags. According to the local villagers, there was a rumbling noise that night and we thought that we were firing guns, but the accuracy was not very clear. According to my personal feeling, it should be shortly after we had finished talking the night before. After the accident, when we wanted to go to the rescue, the weather had deteriorated and the avalanche in the bell-mouth area continued. After reporting the rescue, the first group of them was Li Zhixin and Wang Yongfeng from Beijing. It was a week or so after the Tibetan team Ren Qing Ping Chong came to the rescue. When they took snow to Camp 2, they did not bring tents and planned to use them directly. C2's old tent, but they dug so big a place in the basketball court, still did not find the tent, it was dark and had to be withdrawn. The next day, they took advantage of the gap between the two snow blows and drew back quickly. After the accident, high-altitude camera
After shooting, we found traces of landslides in the southeast (that is, on our climbing route). In that position, the snow and ice landslides only have the possibility of avalanche, so basically it is believed that the avalanche has caused mountain difficulties. After the unsuccessful rescue of the accident, I returned to Beijing and I did not carry out systematic summarization and analysis. I am sorry. Mountains and nature have a wonderful side. As lovers of nature, we should fully experience its beautiful things and experience them with heart, but there are also cruel aspects. We should: respect the snow-capped mountains, must master the weather, terrain information, The strength of the players, the experience of the team leader, and the cooperation between team members are also very important. In the high mountains, the sacrifice is normal and easy. It requires teamwork and adversity and mutual respect, and cherish each other.
When teaming, we must consider the team's strength, experience and technical support, and the relevant forces must be trained. Technology should be taught by an experienced climber. Yuzhu Feng and Bogda are all very good training bases, but they cannot be blindly taken risks. In addition, the preparation of equipment must be adequate, and some equipment can be replaced, such as living equipment, but the general technical equipment can not be replaced, spare gloves, socks, hats, glasses, etc. must be
Have. A principle is the best equipment possible conditions. The other is team spirit. Foreign teams do a good job in this area. They love and cooperate well. For example, when another team crashes, the rest of the team will stop climbing and make every effort to rescue them. Each team should collaborate with each other and not just pursue the summit.
Tao’s sentimentalism and the enjoyment of mountaineering are the common feelings of climbers...
In the end, I wish all the mountaineering fans a safe and happy climb to the snow mountains!
Question on the spot:
Q: What are the three elements of mountaineering preparation? :
A: The weather, the terrain, and the status of the team are, as the saying goes, "the weather, the geographical location, the people, and the"
The weather forecast in the mountainous area is very important, pay attention to the life experience of the local residents, and sometimes be accurate than the forecast.
Q: What are the things that are included?
A: Generally there are windproof tents, chocolate, gas cans, stoves, wind-proof matches, etc., in case of emergency.
Q: Can the Meili Snow Mountain climb from the other side? A: Some people are trying to climb in the direction of the check, but they are also quite fragmentary.
Q: The journey from Kunming to Meili A: Xidang is a big village. There are about 20 kilometers from Deqing to Xidang. As long as it does not collapse, trucks can also be used. Local residents helped the people passing through to build roads, but they were troubled by the influence of commodity awareness.
Q: Why in the case of steep slopes, the best way for a mountaineer to meet the weather changes is to stay alive: under heavy snowfall, with poor visibility and steep slopes, the following people will go upwards and step on the flow. snow. Walking up and down, it's easy to slip, and it is difficult to climb in Meri due to the influence of the cross-mounting mountains and the warm, moist air. No one has reached the summit.
Q: How safe is it to go to camp relative to the glaciers?
A: Generally, it is not under the glaciers. This is a taboo for mountaineering. It is difficult to say how far it is safe. There are many different situations depending on the terrain.
Question: The situation of the north and south of Mount Qomolangma A: The difficulty on the northern slope of the Mount Qomolangma is more than 8,500 meters, and the difficulty on the south slope is about 6,500 meters. There is a horrible glacier that changes every day.
Q: The case of climbing Meili last year was answered by the Tibetan team's invitation to participate in the Japanese side. However, the Japanese side said that the strength is not enough and temporarily pushes it. Mei Lie Xueshan now feels emotionally that it is better to combine China and Japan. After all, Japan is Meili. Snow Mountain paid a great price.
Q: What is the problem with the phone being bored?
A: The explanation is not clear. It is just a phenomenon. The feeling may be related to the avalanche.
Q: The association has such a base for opening up and training mountaineering technology.
A: No, Huairou Base is a place for self-training of the national mountaineering team. Jointly building a rock wall with the Japanese is mainly a professional team training and competition.
Q: Feelings in avalanches.
A: I naturally breathe, and snow blocks in my mouth. When I start rolling, the snow is soft, but the more distant I am, the more uncomfortable I am. There is oppressive feeling of suffocation.
Q: The difference between the crampons A: The fast-carrying crampons are suitable for ice and snow walking below 50 degrees, but not suitable for ice climbing. Bundle type is more suitable for ice climbing.
Question: The role of the avalanche streamline. Answer: As the air wave flutters, the rescuer will be given a possible signal.
Q: The season of Pan-Mali: A relatively good period in November and December, and roads collapsed during the rainy season.
Q: The situation of Yan Genghua.
A: If the Sherpa pulls hard and pulls Yan, it is very likely that both people will not be able to come back because of improper use of oxygen. Experienced mountaineers generally leave half a bottle of oxygen after the summit and have the ability to move with oxygen. Mountains over 8,000 meters are difficult to reach after a single person has reached the summit. Even the Sherpas have difficulties.
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