Old donkey teaches you how to choose the right outdoor hiking shoes

Just like the tires in the outdoors, if there are no good tires, there is no use for a powerful engine and a full tank.

Be careful about your feet. Your feet are the foundation of your body.



The strong and healthy feet have three qualities:
Has developed muscles and tendons;
Biomechanical skeleton;
Dry, warm, skin without blisters.
Footwear Demand Boots and shoes are designed to keep the ascending climber's feet healthy and strong, despite the fact that the bare-foot running groups have continued to celebrate the benefits of natural adjustments to their strength and health in recent years. For most of the ass hiking lovers, the fact may be somewhere in between.
Since shoes (and food) are two of the most "individual" choices for ALICEs, I tried to adjust my observations and suggestions. In this chapter, I will only share what is best for me.




How to buy new shoes
1. Try on your preferred mountaineering socks to ensure that they fit perfectly.
2. Squeeze the toe into the tip of the shoe and try to squeeze the index finger between the heel and the back of the shoe. If the plug does not go in, it means that the pair of shoes is too short and your toenails will be affected by shock and long blisters when going downhill.
3. After you have tied your shoelaces, try moving your heels up and down, back and forth, and left and right. A good heel cup and shoelace system will firmly hold your heel, so it can not move too much.
4. Toe toe, toe box should have enough space to move the toes, but not wide enough to allow the soles of the foot to slide, otherwise it will cause trouble when walking on the mountainside.
5. Take a short walk to make sure that when you wear this pair of shoes, the pace, settling, and starting position are all very natural.




Regardless of the season, my shoes must meet the following requirements:
Fit If the shoes are not fit enough, I will soon forget how high the shoes are, or how cheap the discounts are. The length, width, and volume of the shoes must be appropriate; fit my arch; do not allow the feet to deteriorate, such as the swelling of the thumb sac or excessively protruding heels; and there must be some elastic space, in order to fit comfortably Instead of letting my feet match it, my feet form.
Breathing If your shoes are suffocating in sweat, my feet will become wet and even wet, which can lead to blisters, maceration, and even soaking feet (also called sulcus feet).
Quick-drying In the long wet weather, for example, in the continuous rain or in the changing spring snow, my shoes will inevitably be soaked. Even shoes that are known as "waterproof" will eventually fail: if I step into a deep puddle or wading across a creek, water will seep through the shoe, and otherwise it will flow into the shoes along the legs. in. In addition, after a certain period of use, the waterproof footwear will lose its waterproofness - the sealant of full grain leather will decompose, and the strips of boots made of waterproof and breathable material like Gore-Tex will be fatigued. Fabrics also gradually deteriorate due to sludge and sweat. If you put on a waterproof and airtight shoe like a rain boot, my feet will get soaked by your own sweat. Instead of trying in vain to keep my feet dry, I now prefer to wear low-absorbent and quick-drying shoes. I will especially look for shoes that are made of hydrophobic and porous nylon mesh.




Durable and ideal, my shoes should be able to walk 800 to 1200 kilometers - enough to affect my limits and ecological footprint. In order to extend the life of the shoes, I used AquaSeal patch glue or extra stitches to reinforce the most easily worn parts of the shoes before I started using them.
I probably will change shoes every 800 kilometers.
Foot protection My shoes must have a durable sole or a flexible insole (preferably polyurethane foam instead of ethylene-vinyl acetate, commonly known as EVA) to protect the soles of the feet. Runners' shoes may be more and more light and simple, but they do not have to carry heavy backpacks, walk for up to 15 hours a day, and walk on such rough terrain. I used to wear unprotected shoes to climb. As a result, my forefoot hurts. So I think that in order to avoid the pain of the foot for several months, several tens of grams are worth it.
Sensitivity and flexibility However, the sensitivity and flexibility of my feet cannot be sacrificed for sole protection. Especially on off-road terrain or on technical terrain (like gravel slopes), it's important to be able to feel the ground beneath your feet. Otherwise, I can't be so confident in my foothold; I can't predict how my feet (or the body that moves with my feet) will move in the next step; and I can't make the right adjustments to the surface ups and downs.
To lightly move the weight on the foot, the physical energy that needs to be consumed is five or six times the weight of the moving back. So wearing a shoe that weighs a kilogram instead of two kilograms is equivalent to reducing the weight of a four or five kilogram backpack. (If you are interested in learning more about this topic, you can read "Energy Cost of Backpacking in Heavy Boots" by SJ Legg and A. Mahanty, published in "Ergonomics", Vol. 29, No. 3, 1986, 443-438. Page.) Too heavy shoes can cause premature fatigue and clumsiness, and may also be more prone to accidents than lightweight shoes.




Depending on the weather conditions, my shoes may also have the following characteristics:
Keeping warm In cold weather, the warm layer can reduce the loss of convective heat and keep my feet warm. The warm layer may be in the form of a short fiber warmth layer such as Thinsulate or a full grain leather instead of a porous mesh.
Not warm in the warm environment, my request is just the opposite: the shoes must be breathable and ventilated, and the feet can be kept cool by evaporation and convection cooling.
A waterproof, breathable, waterproof, breathable upper prevents externally dry sources of moisture (like cold snow) from getting my feet wet and causing loss of conduction heat. The shoes must be breathable, otherwise my feet will get wet from the shoes because of sweating.
Hard soles. When walking or climbing on hard snow, hard soles are easier to kick out and step on more stable edges. When the snow is soft, soft-soled shoes are enough - you can ask the climber who walked hundreds of Pacific Ridge Walkers in High Sierra in June. The crampons are usually suitable for hard-soled shoes, but both Kahtoola and CAMP have soft cramps for less technical use.




Upper protection If there are many bad walks on my route - like hailstones, gravel slopes and thick bushes - then I need more protective uppers. Although heavier and less breathable, these uppers are usually more durable. On good and well-repaired trails, there is no need for protective uppers, but I still find shoes with toes to prevent accidentally kicking stones or roots.
Support and handling I was fortunate to have a good biomechanical structure; the skeletal system was properly supported by strong muscles, ligaments, and tendons; and the ankle was not injured. However, if I am not born lucky, I may need to rely on the shoe sole core, anti-foot inversion device, orthopedic insole, or middle and high boots to provide support and control action.
If you are prone to spraining your ankles, I do recommend wearing high boots, but you must understand that this is not a panacea. You also have to wear braces, use trekking poles on weaker ankles, or try to improve your muscle strength and biomechanical structure.




This article is reproduced in "National Geographic Ultimate Mountaineering Equipment Guide: Tools and Techniques that Must Be Known Before Going Uphill"
Author: Andrew Basescu Lorca



Andrew Skurka is an experienced adventurer, speaker, guide, and writer. He is the annual explorer nominated by Outdoors and the National Geographic Expedition magazine, and is also the annual character nominated by Backpacker magazine. When he didn't carry a backpack, he lived in Boulder, Colorado, USA.

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